Friday, May 6, 2016

HAIR REGIME FOR DUMMIES PART 2

Hey!
In part 1, I went over the “pre-poo”. This post will go over the actual wash day. First you shampoo (to clean the hair—clean hair grows. Forget the myth that dirt allows growth). Shampoo-ing can be very drying and harsh on the hair, even after you went over the prepoo step. Therefore you must use conditioner to put back moisture into your hair strand. Afterwards you must deep condition. Deep conditioning is important in order to fortify the hair strands.  

Before the wash
If your hair is long enough, divide it in four sections with sectioning clips. I feel like this is most important for SL and longer hair. This reduces chances of tangling and makes it easier to wash your hair. Then I rinse each section with lukewarm to warm water. This water temperature helps open the cuticle slightly (hot water will open the cuticle too much and can cause rough hair and frizziness).

The Shampoo 
You must apply the shampoo to your scalp (it is unnecessary to apply shampoo to your hair, as it will run off your scalp and flow down your hair strands anyway. Shampooing your hair directly can dry out your hair). When you apply the shampoo, you should massage it in first. Massaging the scalp improves circulation, promoting hair growth. Then let it sit for one to two minutes to make sure the shampoo can really clean the scalp.
Next you start to rinse your scalp and hair with lukewarm to warm water. Rinse one section at a time (do everything during your wash one section at a time). Rinse until the water runs clear. You mught want to shampoo your scalp again if you think you need it. After rinsing each section, wring out your hair, removing excess water before moving onto the next section.

The Conditioner 
After you rinse out the shampoo from your hair and remove excess water by wringing each section like a rag, apply conditioner to each section and put on a shower cap to let it sit and heat up slightly using your body's natural heat. After 30 seconds to a minute, rinse out each section with as cold water as you can stand. Cold water seals the cuticle, which reduces roughness and minimizes frizz. Leaving cuticles raised causes unevenness along the hair shaft, which can potentially cause damage, moisture loss and frizz. After you rinse out each section until the water runs clear, wring out the hair to remove excess water. This is important for the next step.

The Deep Conditioner/Protein Treatment 
I believe it is important to deep condition on hair that is mostly dried but has been shampooed. It is important to shampoo hair before deep conditioning because according to The Natural Haven:
"Hair carries a slight negative charge which is enhanced when you use a shampoo with a negative charge. Hair will adsorb the conditioner better because the positive charge in the conditioner is attracted to the negative charge on the surface of hair. For the purpose of getting the best result from a shampoo, surfactants with a charge are best.” These shampoos are SLES shampoos (sodium lauryl ether sulfate), mild sulfate free shampoos, and cocamidopropylbetaine/cocobetaine/cocabetaine shampoos.

However, it is important to mostly dry your hair after you had washed and conditioned it because when water is applied to hair, it takes up most of your hair strand. If you apply deep conditioner to completely wet hair, then not enough of it is absorbed into the strands to make an impact. Therefore, I believe in wringing out the hair and/or drying each section with a cotton t-shirt before applying a deep conditioner or protein treatment. 
After you apply the deep conditioner, you should let it sit under a heat source for up to thirty minutes.
According to The Natural Haven, "Increased time and temperature do increase the amount of conditioner adsorbed to the surface of hair. The maximum time is 20-30 minutes and the maximum temperature is around 35°C. " Long story short, this means that the maximum absorption time is thirty minutes. After thirty minutes, more conditioner will not absorb into your hair strand so it is not completely necessary to leave the conditioner in for longer than half an hour. However, heating up the deep conditioner to around body heat (35 Celsius or 95 Fahrenheit) increases the amount of conditioner absorbed into the hair strand. I like to use my own body heat to warm up the deep conditioner. I find hair dryers too uncomfortable. After I wring out and t-shirt dry my hair, I simply apply the deep conditioner to each section then put on a shower cap (and a beanie or two if I'd like) and wait thirty minutes before rinsing out my hair in sections using cold water.
Summary
So here is the order:
1) Section Hair
 2) Rinse each strand with lukewarm to warm water
 3) Apply Shampoo to Scalp
 4)Massage Scalp
5)Let Shampoo Sit
6) Rinse & Wring Each Section  
7) Apply Condition to Each Section
 8) Let Sit
 9) Rinse & Wring Each Section
10) T-Shirt Dry
 11) Apply Deep Conditioner  
12) Apply Shower Cap And/Or Beanies
13) Leave on for 30 Minutes
14) Rinse in Sections
15)Style Hair As Usual
Until next time,
 Kiki :)
References
http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2012/10/deep-conditioning-dry-hair-wet-hair-or.html

http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2012/10/deep-conditioning-effect-of-time-and.html

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