Monday, May 2, 2016


May 6, 2016
Dear Readers,
Hey it is Kiki am back to explain how to create a hair regime. I believe that if you follow a basic regime consistently, previously damaged hair will become healthy and then will grow longer. Health before length. If you are follow a regime consistently and utilizing healthy hair care practices (drinking ½ of your body weight in water, consuming protein, sleeping with a satin cap or on a silk pillowcase, using low manipulation hair styles and/or protective styling, using heat scarcely) but you are not experiencing growth do not worry. Hair first becomes stronger and healthier before it can retain its length.
I will keep this easy-to-follow.
Here is an outline of an example of a hair regime (there are many types of hair regimes but I will keep this close to mine).
Day before:
Day of:  
(1x week) Deep condition
(1x month or more based on hair needs) Protein Treatment  
An example month:

Wash day  

Wash day
Deep Condition (DC)

Wash day
Protein Treatment

Wash day
Shampoo Condition

Wash day  

Wash day
Shampoo Condition

Wash day  

Wash day
Shampoo Condition

This is a basic hair regime. Now I will explain each step further and the importance of each step further. This is Part 1 of the Hair Regime for Dummies series, and the focus of Part 1 is the importance of the Oil Prepoo
I believe in OIL PREPOOS over any other types simply because OIL PREPOOS can actually penetrate the hair strand, fortifying it from the INSIDE OUT. The oil you use is based on your hair needs.  

If your hair is CHEMICALLY PROCESSED, then a ceramide-filled oil would be best.  A ceramide is a lipid. (Lipids is another word for oil and ceramides are one of the three types of oil found actually IN the cuticle of the hair. Ceramides are important because they are the oils which bind the different layers of the cuticle together. These cuticle layers are important because they protect hair from damage) Ceramides are important for chemically damaged hair (colored or relaxed) because they can actually replace the ceramide that HAD been in the cuticle but that was destroyed during the coloring and/or relaxing process. Unprocessed natural hair does not absorb as much of the ceramide-filled oil as processed hair does because unprocessed natural hair does not need it as much. Unprocessed natural hair only takes up 18% of ceramide-filled oils (discarding of the 82% of the oil that it does not need) while processed hair absorbs 53-63% of the ceramide-filled oil. In addition, no-lye relaxer hair is able to resist breakage more after utilizing ceramide-filled oils.
  The synthetic form of ceramides has a high dose and I therefore recommend them to those with highly damaged hair. However, ceramides does occur naturally in oils. 
If you have damaged hair and use a ceramide-filled oil, you should still use protein treatments. These oils replenish the inner cuticle oil, but hydrolysed protein is still needed to repair the cuticle surface. Not only do I recommend a ceramide-filled oil as a prepoo for relaxed or colored hair (in a concoction with coconut oil--I’ll explain why coconut oil is the best prepoo oil) but also as a daily sealant.
A list of ceramide filled oils and the percentage of ceramides in each:   
Safflower oil — 78%
Grape seed oil — 73%
Poppyseed oil — 70%
Sunflower oil — 68%
Hemp oil — 60% *
Corn oil — 59%
Wheat germ oil — 55% *
Cottonseed oil — 54%
Soybean oil — 51%
Walnut oil — 51%
Sesame oil — 45%
Rice bran oil — 39% *
Pistachio oil — 32.7%
Peanut oil — 32%
Canola oil — 21%
Linseed oil — 15%
Olive oil — 10%
Palm oil — 10%
Macadamia oil — 2%
Coconut oil — 2%
List of products with ceramides
Affirm Fiberguard Sustenance Fortifying Conditioner
Aubrey Organics GPB Conditioner
Aubrey Organics White Camellia Conditioner
BPT Wheat Germ Conditioner
Claudie’s Hair Revitalizer Balancing Quinoa Coffee Hair Cream
Claudie’s Hair Revitalizer Ends Insurance
Claudie’s Hair Revitalizer Growth Elixir
Claudie’s Hair Revitalizer Moisturizing Quinoa Coffee Hair Cream
Claudie’s Hair Revitalizer Tiffani Ceramide Pomade
Crece Pelo Leave-In
Creme of Nature (Green Bottle/Old Formula)
Garnier Fructis Instant Melting Strength and Repair Masque
Hask Cerafix
Ion Moisturizing Treatment
Jane Carter’s Nutrient Replenishing Conditioner
Joico K-Pak Reconstructor
Kanechom Ceramidas
KeraPRO Restorative Treatment
Keratase products
L’Oreal Elvive Damaged Care
L’Oreal Total Repair 5 Restoring Shampoo
L’Oreal Total Repair 5 Restoring Conditioner
L’Oreal Total Repair 5 Damage Erasing Balm
L’Oreal Total Repair 5 Extraordinary Oil
L’Oreal Total Repair 5 Multi-Restorative Dry Oil
Lustrasilk Cholesterol
Lustrasilk Shea Butter
Lustrasilk Mango
Matrix Biolage Cera-Repair
Matrix Biolage Fortifying conditioner
Matrix Biolage Cera-Repair Hydratherapie
Miss Key 10 en 1 Conditioner
Mizani Therma Smooth
Nexxus Aloe Rid
Nexxus Botanic Oil Shampoo
Nexxus Headdress
Nexxus Humectress
Nexxus Keraphix
Nexxus Therappe
Optimum Care Anti-Breakage Therapy Stay Strong Shampoo
Optimum Care Anti-Breakage Therapy Stay Strong Conditioner
Optimum Care Anti-Breakage Therapy Leave-in Ultimate Strengthener
Optimum Care Anti-Breakage Therapy Split End Reconstructor
Optimum Care Anti-Breakage Therapy Cream Hairdress
Optimum Care Anti-Breakage Therapy Featherlight Hairdress
ORS Hair Mayonaise (New Formula *WGO*)
Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner
Proclaim Aloe Hot Oil
Proclaim Natural 7 Oil
Proclaim Natural Olive Oil
Redken Extreme Conditioner
Redken Extreme Rescue Force
Redken Extreme Anti-Snap
Redken Extreme Strength Builder Plus
Salerm Wheat Germ Conditioner
Satinique Products
Sedal Products
Shalmi Vadhera Coconut Alma Revitalizing Hair Treatment
Shey Butter Oil (Sally’s)
Silicon Mix Proteina de Perla (Pearl Protein) Leave-In
Silicon Mix Conditioner
Silicon Mix Leave-in
Silk Dreams Hair Care Wheat Germ Butter Conditioner
Skala Ceramide 3 Conditioner (Brazilian)
Softsheen Carson Breakthru Anti-Breakage – Protecting Foam
Softsheen Carson Breakthru Anti-Breakage – Fortifying Moisturizing Shampoo
Taliah Waajid Enhancing Herbal Conditioner
TIGI Serious Conditioner
Ultra Black Hair Products
Another way to use ceramides is by applying eucalyptus oil directly to the scalp, which can increase ceramide levels by 120% in 3 months according to this article (  

Coconut oil, coconut oil, coconut oil.
While I’m not the type who’d use coconut oil in absolutely EVERY HAIR PRODUCT I own, I still believe it is essential for a healthy hair care regime.   
The reason is because coconut oil can ACTUALLY PENETRATE THE HAIR’s CORTEX (avocado and olive oils are the only other oils scientifically proven to penetrate the hair shaft), which means it can actually strengthen it from the INSIDE OUT. Moreover it prevents hygral fatigue because it fills up the hair shaft and decreases the amount of water that can get into the shaft(hygral fatigue: water on hair causes it to expand. This can cause the hair’s cuticle to lift, changing the uniformity of its layers and leading to splits along the shaft during the drying process. Side effects of hygral fatigue includes limp/gummy/mushy hair, low elasticity in hair and breakage. For more information on hygral fatigue, please read this article   

Coconut oil is best on dry hair so that it can actually penetrate the hair. Water repels oil so applying coconut oil to wet hair will not allow it to penetrate. Because it acts as a protein (it has a high affinity for hair protein), it is important for relaxed or chemically altered hair (using chemicals on hair damages the hair’s protein so protein is important for chemically processed hair).

Coconut oil is best used as a PREPOO TREATMENT. (Copied from this article by Longing 4 Length: “ I was shocked to learn scientific support even exists as to whether coconut oil is more effective as a pre or post-wash treatment!  As it turns out, protein loss is more reduced when coconut oil is used as a conditioner before washing versus after.  In addition, hair retains water (moisture) as explained above much better when treated with coconut oil prior to washing. This led to the conclusion that preventing protein loss plays a greater role in preventing hair damage than lubrication alone.  This is one of the primary differences between coconut oil and other oils; The study compared coconut, sunflower and mineral oils.  Only coconut oil was shown to reduce hair damage (due to the reduction in protein loss) whereas all three oils lubricate hair.”  
It is also best to use it the night before your wash day in order to allow it to penetrate your hair. The longer it sits in the hair the more that will penetrate into the cortex.The hair absorbs 15% of its weight in coconut oil after the first hour and this increases to 20-25% in six hours (  
If you are using coconut oil or a ceramide-filled oil or a concoction of both, the best way to prepoo is by applying it to sections on dry hair (to make sure your hair is adequately covered). It is not required to overly saturate your hair with the oil. Just make sure there is an adequate coating on your hair strands. Besides, sleeping with a head full of a ton of oil can be very uncomfortable and messy. You can wear a plastic cap or shower cap (so that your natural body heat can heat up the oil) but just your satin bonnet is fine as well. If you have work in the morning and cannot wash it out, you can braid or bun your hair. (This is why not overly saturating your hair is important. You do not want to go to work or run errands with oil dripping down your ears or making your hair look very greasy and gross.) When you ARE ready to wash your hair, you can either first rinse your hair with water and then shampoo or just go straight to the shampoo. The actual wash day will be covered in the next post.  


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